There are two types of people who get stationed at Joint Base Lewis-McChord: those who big, puffy pink heart love it in all its dreary glory … and those who count the days until they can escape the rain and go somewhere that is very, very, very sunny all year round.
Me? I love it. LOVE IT. If the Army was to call me today and say “Guess what! You are PCSing to JBLM tomorrow. Pack your bags, girlie.” I’d say “thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyou.” And if a vehicle wasn’t available, I would start the journey on foot.
That is how much I love it.
People say it’s too rainy, dreary and never, ever hot enough. I say it’s temperate, predictable and amazing. Rarely snow and rarely above 80 degrees? Sign me up.
(I’m not going to let you leave this post without thinking JBLM is the most amazing duty station ever).
And here’s a little secret for those of you who are tempted to get on the JBLM-hate-train. What no one ever tells you is this: in between the rainy months, from about July through the early fall, the Puget Sound region is a glorious, beautiful, mostly sunny place … and it will make you never want to leave.
If you’re reading this and headed to JBLM or the nearby Navy or Coast Guard bases, you probably don’t have much say in the matter and aren’t hoofing it there like I would in a hot second.
But count your blessings, unpack those boxes in your new quarters, and take a second to check out these Puget Sound area must-do’s.
Spend the day in Seattle. This is a no-brainer. About an hour north of the Fort Lewis area and a ferry ride across the Sound from Bremerton and the other Navy bases near there, Seattle is the closest major city to all the military installations in this area. Hit up the Space Needle (but skip the restaurant at the top), built for the 1962 World’s Fair, and then hit up Pike’s Place Market to see the famous fish tossing. When you’re done, walk down the street to Pier 54 and visit the original Ivar’s location for some delicious fish from their stand or an amazing sit down meal at the Ivar’s Salmon House next door. You won’t regret it.
This is also your chance to take a ferry ride. Instead of driving to Seattle up I-5 from JBLM, try going up to Bremerton and getting on the ferry there with your car and then driving home on the interstate from Seattle. Or, you could park your car in Bremerton and go home the same way you came.
Explore Tacoma. This city is the nearest town to Fort Lewis and serves as a major shipping hub. The city has several museums, including an art museum and a museum of glass, that are both impressive. You can also enjoy the Puget Sound from here. Go kayaking from downtown or stop in Steilacoom, a small town just outside Lewis’s North Fort back gate, to enjoy great views from small beaches and a great farmer’s market in the summer. Hungry? Hit up Pacific Grill for food that will make your mouth very, very, VERY happy.
Hit up the Pacific Ocean. While the bases in the Puget Sound region are all on or near ocean water, none of them are on the actual Pacific Ocean beach front. Get in your car and drive a few hours from Fort Lewis to find the real beach. A little known gem is Pacific Beach Resort (the site for the actual resort does not appear to be working at the time of this writing). Owned by the Navy, this small ocean front hotel and conference center offers subsidized rates for military personnel of cottages, hotel rooms and campground. It is rarely, if ever, warm enough to enjoy a swim at Pacific Beach (so don’t go expecting Southern California sands and surf), but you will get to see the ocean and enjoy a relaxing weekend at a great, reasonably priced little lodge. Food options in the area can be a little hard to come by, so don’t be expecting gourmet dining. Still, it’s a great weekend escape year round for a little R&R away from post.
Something completely new to me about this area: you can take your car and DRIVE on the beach. I’m a Northern California girl, raised on the chilly beaches of Santa Cruz, and I had never heard of such a thing. Drive on the beach? How cool is that!
We also enjoyed driving up the Pacific coast to Ruby Beach, or “Beach 3.” This beach offers tidal pools and great views of crashing waves. Again, it’s chilly – so bring a sweatshirt or maybe even a jacket.
Visit Port Townsend, Port Angeles and, if you have time, Victoria B.C. Get in the car and take a weekend trip up to the small town of Port Townsend, where you can book a Bed and Breakfast (we stayed in this one), enjoy a quaint downtown and eat at Lanza’s Ristorante, a to-die-for Italian restaurant (that or I was just really, really, REALLY hungry).
The next day drive to Port Angeles, park your car in a lot and get on a ferry to Victoria, B.C. Stay in one of the fancy hotels there just off the water and explore Victoria on foot, including the parliament building. Never hurts to say hello to the Canadians, right?
Visit really big mountains. If you dig the outdoors even a little bit, take my advice and invest in an inter-agency National Park year pass … because you are going to get your money’s worth.
Edit: just kidding! As of May 19 (and after I poured sweat and blood into writing this post) active duty, Guard and reserve families can score one of those passes for free! Read all the details here.
Joint Base Lewis McChord is nestled on the South Sound near some really, really big, really amazing mountains. On a clear day check out what you can see from the post.
That’s Mount Rainier -– and, in case you can’t tell, it isn’t that far away. Take a drive up to the Paradise side visitor’s center for some great views and hikes for all skill levels.
If you’re feeling brave and outdoorsy, you can venture even further up the mountain on a longer hike. In fact, the entire region is covered with trails and camp grounds. Since you won’t catch me sleeping on the ground ever, I am not a good source to advice you on this subject … but you can check out this informative website.
The infamous Mount Saint Helens is also a day trip away. An active volcano, you can visit the fascinating fallout zone from the 1980 eruption, or drive a little further and see the side that wasn’t impacted as strongly, including the lava tubes and Ape Caves, a really interesting series of ancient lava flows.
Then there is the North Cascades and Olympic Mountains. Just outside Port Angeles is Hurricane Ridge, a visitor’s center and breathtaking view you can easily drive to.
As you can tell, I think the Fort Lewis region is absolutely amazing. Now that I’ve written all this down, I’m activiely plotting a way to get stationed there again, pronto. And I haven’t even told you about Whidbey Island (home to a Naval Air Station), whale watching excuersions (which I never got the chance to do) or Olympia, the Washington State capitol …
Send me a postcard!
About Amy Bushatz
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No need to "invest" in a National Pass… they are free to active duty service members, their families and activated Guard and Reserve!
http://www.navytimes.com/news/2012/05/ap-national…
And we are stationed at Bangor in Puget Sound. We love it SO much here we never want to leave (and fortunately probably never will). In fact, we want to retire here. Yes, there are times that it doesn't rain, but when it's rainy and dreary… it's usually bitter cold in the rest of the country. I'll take 40 and rain over my home state of Michigan with its -20 and blizzard conditions.
And you are right… the summers/falls are gorgeous. Absolutely stunning. But let's keep it a secret since it'll keep people away. If they find out how gorgeous it really is for a good chunk of the year, we'll lose our "rainy and miserable" label and will be inundated with people moving here! ;-)
Yup that actually happened AFTER I wrote this going on three weeks ago … thanks for the reminder to change this. Youd think I wouldve remembered that since I posted about it on this site earlier this week …
Just PCS'd FROM JBLM…wanted to mention Leavenworth.. couple hours drive but very worth it especially if you can get up there around early fall. Lots of stuff to do, but I will admit, I am one of those people that HATED being stationed there. Originally from a sunny place, the rain and low clouds drove me crazy. It is a really nice post, really nice people, and lots to do thanks to a great MWR…but the 2 years I was there must've been unseasonably rainy. Our "good weather" weeks, the late summer and early fall, only lasted about a month the first year followed by freezing rain and fog, then snow, then just rain and more rain and drizzle and sleet.. You get used to it, but I was really glad to get out of that area and back into the sun.
Love this post! I think it would be great to see more of them, highlighting various military locales.
Thanks Shari! We are working to do more of them — this is actually the fourth one in this series. We've feature New Mexico, Washington D.C. and Monterey, Calif. as well. If you're interested in profiling your little spot of military turf, send us a message through the contact me button at the top of the page.
The climate is not great, but its certainly not the worst. It's the people. Ever live somewhere that is just okay and people can't stop patting themselves on the back about how great they are. Lower middle class and pretentious do not make for a good mix. Tacoma is far from interesting. The museums are laughable and Seattle is hardly worth the trip. We've been stationed many places before and will we never return once being set free. This is where happiness comes to die.
Yup we're going to put you firmly in the "hater" category on this one. I thought Tacoma was great — I loved the history museum, and that little museum in Steilacoom was really interesting as well. I'm not a huge Seattle fan, truly, but I am counting the days until I can figure out a way to trick someone into sending me back there. And if I have anything to do with it, we'll be retiring there.
But maybe I'm biased — I'm from Santa Cruz, Calif. and the back patting in Tacoma is no where near the level of self-love that you find in NorCal :-)
I love this post, it’s refreshing to see there are people who love it here. I was born at Madigan and raised in Olympia, so I love seeing people take advantage of what this place has to offer. I am married to a military man, and we have traveled many different places, but none seem to hold my interest the way this area does. Maybe because it’s home for me, and I am acclimated to this environment. I grew up in this rain, so im not afraid of getting wet to do some amazing hiking, camping, fishing. Maybe the trick is- dont be afraid of getting a little wet :-D Anyway, really enjoyed seeing the hometown recognized for its good and not it’s bad! Thanks for posting! :-D
I was born on PSNS (Puget Sound Naval Station, aka "The Shipyard") in a hospital-that-is-no-more, and lived in the Bremerton area pretty much my entire life — which is just short of a miracle for a career Navy family. :) Now my husband is in the Nat'l Guard, and we've been stationed only in Monterey, for a brief stint at DLI.
As time passes, I go back and forth between loving this area more than any other place in the world, and wanting to move somewhere much sunnier (like Eastern WA!). I love pretty much everything about this state except the politics, and some of the darker, rainier winters (and summers).
There are many, many wineries and microbrews in the state, too, that are worth checking out. If you're up for a road trip, you can head south to the coast, as well. Cannon Beach, OR, is one of my favorite coastal locations. I also love Portland, OR. There are several locations for skiing in the winter (which I do not do, so I couldn't tell you whether they're great, or not), and if you really need a hot-weather weekend during a more gloomy stretch in the summer, you can head over to Eastern WA and soak up some rays out there.
Port Townsend is one of my other very favorite places in the state. I used to know the couple who owned the house that later became the English Inn B&B — in fact, we had a small home church in there for a few years. :) But Fort Worden is my very favorite EVAR! It's situated right at the corner of the Sound and the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and has some awesome hiking trails. They have not tourist-ized the old bunkers, so they're fun to explore with a flashlight and friends. It also has a retreat-type convention center with rooms you can rent, and lots of camping.
I hate to admit it, but for as long as I've lived in this state, I've never been to Hurricane Ridge or Mt. Rainier, and have only been to Mt. St. Helens briefly. But I grew up seeing the Cascades on one horizon and the Olympics on the other, and sometimes a body of water in-between. It can get dreary when it's rainy, but the sunny days truly are glorious! :)
We were stationed in the Bremerton area for 2 years and could not wait to leave! The rain and the cold is de-pres-sing. Currently in Guam and loving it!
I grew up in Washington, up towards the Canadian border more, in a farming town called Sedro Woolley. I believe there is a definite love/hate relationship with the northwest. The summers are perfect! There are not many places you can go where everything is green and the weather is sunny (in the summer at least). If you are lucky though it only lasts around 4-5 months, otherwise all the other seasons run into eachother and form "a rainy and dreary mess". But if you notice, people from Washington don't let a little rain or dreariness ruin their day, they enjoy the rain, (which I definitely recommend, a little rain never hurt anyone). It's what makes the Northwest so scenic and pretty!
I think that the little towns in the Northwest are way better than Seattle and Tacoma, those tend to be the more "hippie cities". Up north you have Anacortes, Mount Vernon, La Conner, Snohomish, Winthrop, etc. Those are the best towns because of the amazing history of each one of them and you don't find friendlier people. Like I said before, it's a love/hate relationship, but if you get over the fact of the weather, there is no place anywhere else like it and no place I would rather be.
I was stationed at Fort Lewis for 4 years, I loved it so did my wife and son. Rain, yes but
liveing in Cleveland now and with rain, snow and I will take FORT Lewis.
I loved the outdoors when I was in Washington. The only thing that I hated was the local people. I have never been to a place where so many selfish people lived. Nothing exists outside Western Washington to these people. They constantly screw over the rest of the state for no other reason then the Western side out numbers the people east of the mountains. I love everything else so much though that I would go back in a heart beat. The rain is not that bad. It rarely rains hard or that much. It just rains a little all the time. Get a good hat, rain coat, and boots and get outside. Some of the biggest trees I have ever seen are there. The Columbia river gorge is absolutely beautiful. I spent 7 years there and would do it again.
Loved this place. So much that I stayed after I ETS'd. Unfortunately I had to move, and will probably never be able to move back to Seattle, but it will always be "home".
While we would live to be able to see and experience all of that, this place is just a bit to close to family since mine relocated up there.
Thank you so much for this feature article! I have been in the Puget Sound area for about 6 months and have really hated it here. This has been a difficult transition and one of the only duty stations where I have, like you said, counted the days until we can transfer. I appreciate the inside information on where to go and what to do. I'm sure that our time here will be much more lively thanks to your knowledge and encouragement. Sometimes I forget the fun in moving to new areas of the world, but in order to experience new things you've got to be willing to get out there. Thanks again, Amy.
Oh I'm so glad! And the "good" part of the year is coming, too — so just hold on. On the warm days head down to American Lake on North Fort Lewis and sit on the beach and (if you have kids) let them swim … or swim yourself! For the 4th of July head down to Steilacoom for street dancing (so fun!!) and a great fireworks display over the water. … oh I could go on and on.
Vitamin D supplaments, a sun lamp, and lots and lots of coffee/caffeine….. without those tools JBLM is in fact the place where happiness comes to die!
Tacoma Raniers Baseball, Seattle Thunderbirds Hockey, Seattle Sounders Soccer all good times and good value…the Creme Brulee in Steilicoom is a jewel.
Stationed in the area (Kitsap County) in 1992 and haven't left besides a short tour in Japan. Hated the heat and humidity there, we were so glad to come back to rainy weather and lots of green. Love being an hour from the city, mountains, and ocean. To us it is the greatest place, but like you said their are two groups the lovers and the haters. The July 4th Vintage Car Races for the Childern's Hospital is a must if you get the chance as well, and now there is the LeManns Car Museum. Having a boy cars are always on the top of the list.. But you shouldn't have told everyone about the dry, sunny times, I keep telling the relatives it rains all the time to keep that away : )